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@media(max-width:760px){body{font-size:17px}.frame{width:calc(100% - 40px)}.masthead-top{min-height:94px;gap:16px;flex-wrap:wrap;padding-block:18px}.wordmark{width:min(246px,calc(100% - 89px))}.utility-nav{order:3;width:100%;padding-top:12px;border-top:1px solid var(--ash)}.utility-nav ul{gap:28px}.utility-nav li:last-child a{border:0;padding:0}.menu-toggle{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;font-size:14px;font-weight:600;border:0;background:none;color:var(--ink);padding:12px 0;min-height:44px}.menu-toggle span{font-size:20px;font-weight:400}.topic-nav ul{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:0 18px}.topic-nav li a{display:block;padding:10px 0;font-size:14px}.js .topic-nav:not(.is-open){display:none}.opening{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px;padding-top:24px;padding-bottom:42px}.opening-panel{margin:0;padding:26px 24px 28px}.opening-panel h1{font-size:36px;max-width:none;margin-bottom:20px}.opening-panel .eyebrow{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.04em;margin-bottom:16px}.opening-intro{font-size:16px;line-height:1.6;margin-bottom:24px}.opening-plates{padding:0}.rim-plate img{aspect-ratio:2.45}.basin-plate{width:87%;margin-top:25px}.basin-plate img{aspect-ratio:2.15}.plate figcaption{font-size:11px}.intro-note{display:block;padding:36px 0 46px}.intro-note>p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.footer-top{display:block;padding-bottom:26px}.footer-top .wordmark{width:280px;max-width:100%;margin-bottom:25px}.footer-top p{font-size:22px}.footer-bottom{display:block}.footer-bottom p{margin-bottom:14px}.site-footer{padding-top:38px}.reading-page{padding-block:42px}}
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@media(min-width:761px) and (max-width:900px){.opening{grid-template-columns:1fr}.opening-panel{margin-top:0}.opening-panel h1{max-width:16ch}.opening-plates{width:100%}.rim-plate img{aspect-ratio:3.1}.basin-plate{width:76%}}
/* Measured essay, caption gutter and reading plates follow the opening's seven-part grid. */
.text-link{display:inline-block;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--vermilion);padding-block:5px}.text-link:hover{border-bottom-width:3px;padding-bottom:3px}.section-heading{max-width:650px}.section-heading>p:last-child{max-width:58ch}.geology-note{border-top:1px solid var(--ash);display:grid;grid-template-columns:3fr 4fr;gap:80px;padding-block:58px 82px}.note-body{max-width:56ch}.history-essay{display:grid;grid-template-columns:4fr 3fr;gap:60px;align-items:center;padding-block:16px 90px}.history-plate{padding-right:50px}.history-plate img{aspect-ratio:1.5}.history-plate figcaption{margin-left:24px;border-top:3px solid var(--vermilion)}.history-text{max-width:41ch}.history-text .eyebrow{margin-bottom:16px}.forest-interlude{background:var(--ash);padding-block:64px 50px}.forest-title{max-width:650px;margin-left:14%}.forest-plate{margin-block:32px;width:86%}.forest-plate img{aspect-ratio:2.7;object-position:50% 46%}.forest-note{margin-left:43%;max-width:51ch}.forest-plate figcaption{border-color:var(--ink)}.experience-chapter{padding-block:80px}.native-experiences{margin-block:34px}.planning-note{display:grid;grid-template-columns:3fr 4fr;gap:80px;padding-block:52px;border-block:1px solid var(--ash)}.planning-note>div:last-child{align-self:center;max-width:54ch}.latest-reading{padding-block:76px}.reading-list{border-top:1px solid var(--ash);margin-top:36px}.reading-entry{display:grid;grid-template-columns:3fr 4fr;gap:48px;padding-block:34px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ash);align-items:start}.entry-plate{padding-right:24px}.entry-plate img{aspect-ratio:1.5}.entry-plate figcaption{margin-left:20px;border-top:3px solid var(--vermilion)}.entry-text{padding-block:5px;max-width:58ch}.entry-text .eyebrow{margin-bottom:16px}.entry-text h2{font-size:32px;margin-bottom:18px}.entry-text h2 a{text-decoration:none}.entry-text p{font-size:17px}.latest-reading>.text-link{margin-top:26px}.stay-chapter{border-top:1px solid var(--ash);display:grid;grid-template-columns:3fr 4fr;gap:70px;padding-block:56px}.stay-chapter>div:first-child{max-width:42ch}.native-hotels{padding:26px;border-left:3px solid var(--blue)}.lodging-note h3{font-size:27px}.newsletter-note{padding:30px 0 58px;border-top:1px solid var(--ash);max-width:840px}.newsletter-note h2{font-size:30px}.newsletter-note p{max-width:60ch}.reading-index{padding-block:56px 76px}.index-header{display:grid;grid-template-columns:3fr 4fr;gap:70px;align-items:center}.index-header h1{font-size:clamp(44px,5vw,64px)}.index-header>div>p{max-width:40ch}.index-plate{width:90%;margin-left:auto}.index-plate img{aspect-ratio:2}.index-plate figcaption{margin-left:24px;border-top:3px solid var(--vermilion)}.reading-topics{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px 25px;padding:28px 0 8px;font-size:14px;font-weight:600}.reading-topics 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h2{font-size:33px;margin-top:44px;margin-bottom:20px}.prose h3{font-size:27px;margin-top:34px}.prose h4{font-size:22px;margin-top:28px}.prose p,.prose ul,.prose ol,.prose blockquote{margin-bottom:25px}.prose li+li{margin-top:9px}.prose li ul,.prose li ol{margin-top:10px}.prose a{overflow-wrap:anywhere}.prose blockquote,.wp-block-quote{margin-inline:0;border-left:3px solid var(--vermilion);padding:12px 0 12px 25px}.prose blockquote p:last-child{margin:0}.prose cite{font-size:14px}.prose table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:15px;line-height:1.55}.prose th,.prose td{border:1px solid var(--ash);padding:13px;text-align:left;vertical-align:top}.prose th{font-weight:700;background:var(--paper)}.prose caption{caption-side:top;text-align:left;font-weight:600;padding-bottom:12px}.table-scroll,.wp-block-table{overflow-x:auto;max-width:100%;margin-block:30px}.prose .wp-block-table table{min-width:420px}.prose .wp-block-image,.prose figure{margin:32px 0}.prose figcaption{font-size:12px;line-height:1.5;border-top:1px solid var(--ash);padding-top:10px}.prose .wp-block-gallery{gap:16px}.prose .wp-block-button__link{background:var(--blue);color:var(--paper);border-radius:0;font-weight:600;box-shadow:none}.prose .wp-block-embed iframe,.prose iframe{max-width:100%}.prose .alignwide{width:100%}.prose pre{overflow:auto;max-width:100%;padding:20px;border:1px solid var(--ash);font-size:14px}.prose hr,.wp-block-separator{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--ash);margin-block:34px}.article-gutter{min-width:0;border-left:1px solid var(--ash);padding-left:28px}.gutter-note{border-top:3px solid var(--blue);padding-top:18px}.article-gutter .lodging-note{margin-top:36px;font-size:16px}.article-gutter h3{font-size:25px}.further-reading{padding-block:70px}.further-reading .reading-entry{grid-template-columns:2fr 5fr}.further-reading .entry-plate{padding:0}.further-reading .entry-text h2{font-size:28px}.page-chapter{padding-block:58px 80px}.page-heading{max-width:850px;margin-bottom:38px}.page-heading h1{font-size:clamp(38px,4.7vw,60px)}.page-deck{font-size:20px;max-width:52ch}.page-columns{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,4.5fr) minmax(0,2.5fr);gap:70px;align-items:start}.page-plate{padding-top:20px}.page-plate img{aspect-ratio:1.3}.page-plate figcaption{border-top:3px solid var(--vermilion);margin-left:18px}.legal-chapter{max-width:800px}.legal-chapter .page-columns{display:block}.legal-chapter h1{font-size:48px}.legal-chapter .prose{max-width:none}.legal-chapter .prose h2{font-size:28px}.tours-plates{display:grid;grid-template-columns:4fr 3fr;align-items:end;gap:30px;margin-bottom:38px}.tour-basin img{aspect-ratio:3}.tour-museum{width:84%;margin-left:auto}.tour-museum img{aspect-ratio:2.8}.tour-museum figcaption{border-top:3px solid var(--vermilion)}.native-tours{max-width:none}.provider-empty{border-block:1px solid var(--ash);padding:28px 0}.provider-empty h2{font-size:30px}.provider-empty p{max-width:58ch}.contact-status{border-top:3px solid var(--blue);padding-top:24px;margin-top:36px}.contact-form{margin-top:34px}.contact-form label{display:block;font-weight:600;margin-bottom:8px}.contact-form input,.contact-form textarea,.search-form input{border:1px solid var(--blue);border-radius:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);padding:12px;width:100%}.contact-form button{padding:12px 24px;border:1px solid var(--blue);background:var(--blue);color:var(--paper);min-height:48px}.contact-honey{position:absolute;left:-10000px;max-width:1px;overflow:hidden}.form-privacy{font-size:14px}.form-result{border-left:3px solid var(--vermilion);padding:12px 18px}.search-heading{max-width:850px;margin-bottom:35px}.search-form{max-width:640px;margin-block:28px}.search-form label{display:block;font-size:15px;font-weight:600;margin-bottom:10px}.search-form>div{display:flex;gap:12px}.search-form input{min-width:0}.search-form .button{flex-shrink:0}.missing-page{display:grid;grid-template-columns:4fr 3fr;gap:70px;padding-block:70px 90px;align-items:center}.missing-page h1{max-width:14ch}.missing-plate img{aspect-ratio:1.6}.navigation.pagination{margin-top:35px}.nav-links{display:flex;gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap}.page-numbers{padding:8px 15px;border:1px solid var(--ash)}.page-numbers.current{border-bottom:3px solid var(--vermilion)}
.privacy-panel[hidden]{display:none}.privacy-panel{position:relative;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);border-bottom:3px solid var(--blue);padding:20px max(20px,calc((100vw - 1320px)/2));font-size:14px}.privacy-panel>div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 3fr 2fr;gap:24px;align-items:center}.privacy-panel h2{font-size:22px;margin:0}.privacy-panel p{margin:0}.privacy-panel form{display:flex;gap:10px;flex-wrap:wrap}.privacy-panel button{font-size:14px;min-height:44px;gap:0;padding:10px 14px}.privacy-allow{border:1px solid var(--blue);background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);border-radius:0}.privacy-reopen{min-height:44px}.menu-toggle{display:none}.js .menu-toggle{display:none}
@media(max-width:1100px){.history-essay{gap:32px}.history-plate{padding-right:20px}.geology-note,.planning-note,.stay-chapter{gap:36px}.index-header{gap:35px}.article-header{margin-left:5%}.article-columns{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,4.5fr) minmax(240px,2.5fr);gap:30px}.article-gutter{padding-left:18px}.page-columns{gap:35px}.privacy-panel>div{grid-template-columns:1fr 3fr}.privacy-panel form{grid-column:2}.reading-entry{gap:30px}.entry-plate{padding-right:0}}
@media(max-width:900px){.article-columns{grid-template-columns:1fr}.article-gutter{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--ash);padding:28px 0 0}.article-header{margin-left:0}.article-lead{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:0}.article-lead figcaption{max-width:64ch;margin-top:10px}.prose{max-width:64ch}.page-columns{grid-template-columns:1fr}.page-plate{max-width:480px}.forest-note{margin-left:25%}}
@media(max-width:760px){.js .menu-toggle{display:flex}.topic-nav li a{min-height:44px}.geology-note,.history-essay,.planning-note,.stay-chapter{display:block;padding-block:38px}.history-plate{padding:0;margin-bottom:32px}.history-plate figcaption{margin-left:16px}.history-text{max-width:none}.forest-interlude{padding-block:38px}.forest-title{margin:0}.forest-plate{width:100%;margin-block:26px}.forest-plate img{aspect-ratio:1.55}.forest-note{margin:0}.experience-chapter,.latest-reading{padding-block:44px}.native-experiences{margin-block:24px}.section-heading h2,.planning-note h2,.stay-chapter h2{font-size:31px}.reading-entry{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:22px;padding-block:26px}.entry-plate img{aspect-ratio:1.5}.entry-plate figcaption{margin-left:16px}.entry-text{padding:0}.entry-text h2{font-size:29px}.entry-text .eyebrow{font-size:12px;margin-bottom:12px}.entry-text p{margin-bottom:15px}.native-hotels{padding:22px 0 0;border-left:0;border-top:3px solid var(--blue);margin-top:28px}.newsletter-note{padding-block:30px 40px}.reading-index{padding-block:34px 44px}.index-header{display:block}.index-header h1{font-size:42px}.index-plate{width:100%;margin-top:28px}.index-plate figcaption{margin-left:16px}.reading-topics{font-size:13px;gap:4px 18px;padding-top:20px}.reading-topics a{min-height:44px;padding-top:10px}.article-chapter{padding-top:30px}.article-header h1{font-size:36px}.article-deck,.page-deck{font-size:18px}.article-meta{margin-bottom:25px}.article-lead{margin-bottom:34px}.article-lead img{aspect-ratio:1.5}.article-columns{gap:30px}.prose h2{font-size:29px;margin-top:35px}.prose h3{font-size:25px}.prose table{min-width:410px}.further-reading{padding-block:45px}.further-reading .reading-entry{grid-template-columns:1fr}.further-reading .entry-plate{max-width:310px}.further-reading .entry-text h2{font-size:28px}.page-chapter{padding-block:36px 50px}.page-heading{margin-bottom:28px}.page-heading h1,.legal-chapter h1{font-size:38px}.legal-chapter .prose h2{font-size:27px}.tours-plates{grid-template-columns:1fr;margin-bottom:28px}.tour-basin img{aspect-ratio:2.2}.tour-museum{display:none}.missing-page{display:block;padding-block:38px 55px}.missing-page h1{font-size:37px}.missing-plate{max-width:420px;margin-top:32px}.search-form>div{gap:8px}.search-form .button{padding-inline:14px}.privacy-panel{padding:18px 20px}.privacy-panel>div{display:block}.privacy-panel h2{font-size:21px;margin-bottom:10px}.privacy-panel p{font-size:13px;margin-bottom:14px}.privacy-panel form{gap:10px}.privacy-panel button{font-size:13px}.footer-top .wordmark{max-width:100%}}